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Lubricating and cleaning techniques - Big Ben

 
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eightball1940



Joined: 05 May 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Zionsville, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 6:30 pm    Post subject: Lubricating and cleaning techniques - Big Ben Reply with quote

I read UnDark's explanation/procedure or lubrication a mainspring for the Scotty with 30W Mobil One. Does that hold true for the Big Ben alarm clock Style 1 thru 6? If not, what would you recommend?

Related:

1) What substance and tool is recommended to clean and polish pivots and cups, and the holes in the front and back plates?

2) What is a safe procedure for cleaning a hairspring that appears to be straight and function, but has become extremely dirty?

I have been practicing and have been successful disassembling and reassembly, at least down to the center wheel only, of the big bens. I welcome advice to help me have a better running clock when assembled and oiled.

Thanking the professionals in advance.
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unDark



Joined: 11 Dec 2007
Posts: 208

PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eightball1940,
I also use Slick 50 with teflon as a lubricant for larger main springs.
The pivots of Westclox are made of steel and probably don't need any polishing vs. 8 day mantle clock movements, but if they are rough, you can use emery cloth. You only want to remove any burrs. Even an emery board (a nail file can be used).
There is a product called One-Dip (also others similar products) that are specifically used to clean hairsprings.
Pipe cleaners (the smaller ones) are great for pushing thru the holes to make sure dirt is removed.

Most of the time, putting the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner (even a small one) will do a fine job of removing most (if not all) dirt.
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eightball1940



Joined: 05 May 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Zionsville, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Undark,
I appreciate you advice. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and had not broken down the mechanisms. The result wasn't as good as expected because the clock still ran slow when the F/S was maximum to the F. Was told that many possibilities could cause this; and so I learned to disassemble taking a lot of pictures. The emery sounds ideal, and was really concerned about the pivots on the staff of the balance wheel. though perhaps 1000 grid wet would be suitable. The pipe cleaner sounds great too. Thanks for that one. The slick 50 is also a great suggestion. With your help perhaps I can eliminate the areas which can cause drag, or studder at the escapement and/or balance wheel. I live close to Merritts Clock Shop, and will certainly look for the "One Dip" Thank you so much for sharing. Eightball1940
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unDark



Joined: 11 Dec 2007
Posts: 208

PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe that "One Dip" is no longer available but there are products with similar names that are used specifically for hairsprings.

Regarding the pivots of a balance staff and the cups, I have rarely come across a Westclox that is bad vs watches etc. The original pivots had grease on them which eventually separated from the pivot. Mobil 1 and Slick 50 actually bond to the staff to keep it lubricated.
On the very rare occasion that a pivot is bad, I either replace the pivot screw/nut on the bad side or replace the balance staff. If I don't have one, I will use my lathe to reshape the balance staff. The end of the pivot should never be sharp. Look at the shape of a good one.

When putting the balance staff in place, make the ends "snug" and then back off a little until the staff swings freely. Too much play causes the balance staff to be sloppy and the timepiece will keep erratic time. On some clocks and watches the movement will be pressed a little when put in a case and not swing freely, so you may have to back off the pivot screw/nut a little.

The hairspring should be uniform with no bends especially where the F/S control goes around the hairspring. The hairspring should NOT move when adjusting F/S. If it does, the hairspring need to be adjusted.

The steel rod within the pallet fork that engages the balance wheel must be straight or it will lose power when it swings back and forth. If it is accidentally bent a little away or towards the balance wheel, you will lose a lot of power.

A good way to check the power train is before you put in the hairspring.
You should be able to lightly touch the end of the pallet fork and it should jump to the other side and then do the opposite. If it flicks back and forth easily, then you have good power up to that point.

Also, a magnetized hairspring can cause havoc and must be demagnetized.

Too much oil can slow down any movement. One drop of oil is more that enough to lubricate and entire watch movement.
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